*TEICK27 I-Design>>

i missed the zoo

2005-11-08T21:50:00.000+11:00

i missed the zoo exibition because i was out of the city. does anyone have any info or pictures

whats going on.

2005-11-08T21:25:00.000+11:00

1. Well i am working now full time aginwhich is good because i'm getting the 800 a week that i used to get and it's much easier than school because i don't have to think. While i said i'de never paint cars again i guess when the job camen up i realised that i don't hate it as much as i thought i did. I was struggling a little at first as it has been 9 months since i did any painting and almost 2 years since i painted a car that wasn't mine or a friends. But as it turns out i'm still pretty good which is a bit of a releif.

2. Whats going on with the graduate show, i got sent an email as i'm sure everyone else did saying that they need people to serve drinks and shit, and that theres not enough room for 1st and second years to go. Personally i can go and see the exibition on another day so opening night isn't for that, I thought it was about discussing work with your peers, gaining insight into design process in university and beyond. I understand if they don't have room, thats fine, but serving drinks doesn't allow you involve youself in the community, I would feel segregated and i have better things to do. If it was my exibition i wouldent expect anyone else to cater it unless they were getting payed. perhaps i'm misunderstanding their intention but the email i got sent was worded in confronting but chosen language that rubbed me the wrong way. Good luck to them though and i hope to see them there.

3.Whats going on with the magazine. somebody pleasee i was meant to get contacted bu julian about stuff and i though we were meeting at the exibiting but i got there at eight and nothing. ???

WORK

2005-10-25T12:38:00.000+10:00

well it seems like heaps happenig this week, the wall, the design meetings. But i'm building a retaining wall so i can't do anything. Whats worse is i'm doing it for free, but thats what famil are for i guess. I hope i'll get back by friday. some picures of my snowboard just because:

need to know for trango

2005-10-17T19:38:00.000+10:00

INTRODUCTION/HISTORYThose who have passed through the small camping spot of Urdukas on the way to the higher giants of K-2, the Gasherbrums, or Broad Peak may have seen the Trango Tower massif across the mighty Baltoro Glacier. The east face of Great Trango Tower and Nameless Tower (AKA: "Trango Tower") are among the largest vertical faces of the world. It wasn't until 1975 that the area opened for climbing after being closed for many years and Nameless Tower was ascended for the first time by a strong British team on their second attempt in 1976. Not until 1987 did Nameless Tower see its second ascent by a new route by a Yugoslav team. Great Trango Tower's main summit (6286 m) was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelly, Kim Schmitz, and Dennis Hennek by the easiest route up the western side. Great Trango is rather a large peak with three main summits, all over 6000 meters. In 1984, the 5000 foot Norwegian Buttress was the first route established on the massive East Face, which led to the first ascent of the East Summit (6231 meters). See Appendix A for a complete list of ascents on Great Trango and Trango Towers.
THE CLIMBSTo date, Nameless has 8 routes to its summit, all on its Southeast and Southwest faces. Great Trango has 2 big-wall routes (and one variation) up its East/Northeast Face. Several alpine routes go up the Northwest and West sides of Great Trango. The wall routes are on good quality granite which resembles a cross between the clean compact granite of Yosemite and the coarse granular granite of City of Rocks. Nameless Tower is more featured than Great Trango with more cracks and possible lines. Routes on Nameless are approached from either the Trango or Dungee Glaciers, while Great Trango's wall routes are appoached from the Dungee Glacier. Great Trango's approach is more serious and dangerous than the Nameless approaches.
WEATHER/SEASONIn general the weather was fine for our recent 1992 expedition in June and July. It never got excessively windy and the storms were generally mild, though at times they got fierce. Later in the season is also considered fine (August, September), but the frequency of avalanches increases later in the season making some of the approaches too dangerous. This area of the Himalaya sees very little monsoon action.
TACTICSMany of the routes have been established with siege tactics (i.e. large quantities of fixed ropes) which is a more cautious method of ascent but cumbersome and time consuming. The Norwegian Buttress was established in the purest of pure form, with only six ropes used for the entire climb. The Grand Voyage was also established in this style (known as "Capsule Style"). This summer, two teams of Spanish climbers repeated routes in fast time on Nameless Tower with minimal fixed ropes and gear.
CLIMBING GEARBig wall racks, selection depends on route. Ice gear for the approach and for the summit. Portaledges are required for most routes.
PERMIT and VISAA permit for climbing in Pakistan is required from the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism. (Address: Government of Pakistan.13-T/U Commercial Area, F-7/2 Islamabad.) Permits require a minimum of 4 persons, who all must be registered at time of applying for the permit, though these names can be changed later (with difficulty). 1992 Permit cost for 6000 meter peaks: $1000. Application for a specific peak must be received no later than October 31 of the preceding year. Changes to the permit must be finalized 4 months prior to arrival in Pakistan. The application needs to include such particulars like specific dates of arrival and departure, members including specified leader, reserve members, general size (amount of gear), particulars of travel to and from the peak, information on the peak desired (with second, third, fourth choices), and specifics (including passport info) of the leader and expedition members). A visa is also required. Obtain the visa after permit application is approved. (Address: Consulate General of Pakistan 12 East 65th Street NY NY 10021 )
PRETRIP PREPARATIONSImmunizations: Gamma Globulin (for Hepatitis A), Diptheria-tetanus (if not current), oral Typhoid, oral Malaria recommended (none required). Check with the State Department or the U.S. Public Health Service for current international health warnings: 202-647-1488.
GETTING THEREFly to the Islamabad/Rawalpindi airport. Excess baggage charges vary with each airline, so check this out before committing to the cheapest flight. Also, switching carriers somewhere along the way may be cheaper but guaranteed to be a major hassle. British Airways and Pakistan International are the two international airlines to Islamabad/Rawalpindi. NOTE: Ticket price may be the same for a flight to Skardu (via Rawalpindi).
RAWALPINDI: DO NOT PASS GO. PERMITS AND PAPERS.Once in Rawalpindi, much has to be done before a team can get to the mountains. Plan on at least 4 or 5 days in Rawalpindi. Many expeditions hire an agent in Rawalpindi, who will help with all the red-tape details, arrange for travel to Skardu and Askole, and set up a guide for the porters. An agent in Rawalpindi is a good idea to get you around the first time. Cost: $300 and up.
1. A residence permit (available at the police station) and a "preliminary briefing" with the Minister of Tourism is required. The leader of the expedition meets with the Minister and discusses matters like insurance and equipment for the Liaison Officer, and set up a date for a formal briefing, in which all members of the expedition must participate.
2. An army officer (the Laision Officer, or "LO") is assigned to each expedition. This fellow is usually under the impression that he will be an active climber on the trip, and must be appeased. In addition to wages, the LO must also be outfitted with a full expedition kit, which is a big incentive for the army officers to volunteer for the expedition. The best thing to do here is plan on buying cheap but new items for the officer, as he will invariably be disappointed with a used but excellent North Face Gore Tex Jacket and appeased with a cheap but new K-mart plastic one. A list of 25 items including new boots, a sleeping bag, tent, and full clothing is required. Some but not many of the items can be purchased in Pakistan. Details of the LO's clothing and boot sizes are sent after approval of the Permit. LO wages: $12/day while in Rawalpindi, and $6/day in the mountains, plus kit.
3. A cook must be hired and outfitted too. At our hotel, we had several people offer to be our cook. Letters of recommendation are helpful to look at, but view them with suspicion (our cook's letter was exposed at basecamp when we found it belonged to the cook for the Spanish team with whom we shared basecamp with; notwithstanding, our cook proved to be a fine fellow) Cost of Cook: $6.00/day, plus food.
4. Each porter must be outfitted with three items: shoes, socks, sunglasses. The best value for these items is in Rawalpindi. Cost: approximately $6 per porter.
5. Insurance for the porters, the cook, and the LO (all Pakistanis who will go to the mountains with you) is required and can be obtained in Rawalpindi.
6. Two major insurance bonds must be put up: one for the environment $1000, and one for rescue, $4000. These bonds are best set up with an insurance company in the U.S. If the camps are kept clean and no one needs a helicopter, both these bonds are returned. In addition to these bonds, a $200 environmental non- refundable "contribution" is required.
7. Shipped items must be collected in Rawalpindi. Itemized (!) customs clearance must be shown to the Minister.
8. Bring photos for police and the Ministry of Tourism (4 total).
9. When everything is at long last copacetic, the Minister will approve the expedition at the final briefing.
SHOPPING LIST IN RAWALPINDI
Food for basecamp.
Kitchen for basecamp: Large kerosene stoves, lanterns, cook kit.
Porters kit (1 ea shoes, sunglasses, pr. socks)
Miscellaneous kit items for LO, Cook.
Tarps for porters and for basecamp.
Containers for 55 pound loads (as many as needed).
FOODMost of the basecamp food can be procured in Rawalpindi. (Certain bulk items like flour, kerosene, and cooking oil can be purchased in Skardu.) Finding the right shop in Rawalpindi can be tricky, but once found, good quality items at a good price are to be had. Examples: biscuits, rice, lentils, powdered milk, canned cheese, tang, tea, sardines, tuna, sugar, garlic, onions, potatoes, spices, noodles. For the climb, it seems best to bring most of the provisions from home, such as dried beans, powdered potatoes, dried veggies, 2-minute noodles, lots of drink mixtures (tea w/ sugar, coffee, fruit drink, cocoa,soup mixes), chocolate, candy, plain biscuits, sugar biscuits, cheese, jam, butter, chocolate, dried fruit and muesli. General Rule of Thumb: approximately 2.2 pounds (including minimal packaging) of food per person per day.
NOTE ON FOOD IN CITIES AND TOWNSGeneral rule: If its not hot and freshly cooked, don't eat it (no salads or anything rinsed in tap water). Wash hands before meals. Chai (sweet tea with milk) is generally safe, as well as bottled soda (make sure cap fizzes when removed). A water purifier for hotel tap water saves money on bottled water.
TRAVELOnce all the regulations have been met in Rawalpindi, its time to move to Skardu, the capital of the Northern Territory. It's possible to go overland by bus for $300/team. This takes over 24 hours and is exhausting but beautiful. The other way is to fly (also bueatiful), for $30/ person, plus excess baggage charges. Flying is recommended unless you desire a true cultural and wild experience.
SKARDUSkardu is the last outpost of any size, and is a good place to buy items like flour, kerosene, and cooking oil. Most items are available, but at a higher price than in Rawalpindi. Once in Skardu, porter loads and jeeps for the ride to Askole must be arranged. The jeep road to Askole was finished just recently, and is a great boon to expeditions to the Baltoro. Our expedition required 3 jeeps (and drivers) for our 5 members, cook, LO, and 46 porter loads (2530 pounds of food and equipment). A scale is necessary equipment here, as is an abundance of containers. The 50 and 100 gallon plastic expedition barrels that most of our gear was packed in were the best. Containers of manageable sizes may be hard to find in abundance in Skardu. Having at least one good sturdy wood box for a basecamp kitchen table is nice.
ASKOLEAskole is a tiny village with no goods available, and is the starting point of the trek in to Basecamp. The porters will be officially hired here; during the season, many porters are available in the nearby camping spot of Chango.
THE TREKIt's a three day, 50 mile trek to Trango basecamp. Cable and bridge crossings have tolls, so one member must be on hand with the kitty to pay for each porter and member at these river crossings (usually 15 rupees, or 60 cents/person). Porter wages for the 50 mile trek: $50 each. (55 pound maximum). Basecamp location will depend on the route planned, but there are several good sites on each of the Trango and Dungee glaciers (two members may want to scout basecamp ahead of the rest of the expedition party).
BASECAMPA comfortable basecamp is key to getting rest during the down times. Due to the long and sometimes technical approach to these climbs, several intermediate camps may be required to get to the base of the climb from basecamp. Timing for the routes is critical, due to the weather, so hanging out at a nice basecamp is critical for proper positioning. Individual member tents, as well as a well-built kitchen (stone walls are readily built, bring tarps and lots of cord). Sturdy boxes or even lawn chairs are nice items.
NOTES ON GARBAGEKeep the mountains clean. At basecamp, keep trash in one place. When the expedition's over, let the porters take what they want, burn what will burn, and toss the ashes and the rest into a deep crevasse in the glacier (batteries and other toxic items should be carried out). We made a decision to carry out our 110 pounds of garbage (2 porter loads) at the end of the expedition. After carrying it almost all the way to Skardu, our Laison officer got tired of seeing us lug it around, and dumped it all into the Braldu River, which it was most likely destined for in any case.
EQUIPMENT CONSIDERATIONSPersonal Gear: A complete set of cold weather expedition gear is needed. See Appendix B for a complete list. Communal Gear: Water purifier (for city tap water and for glacial melt), radios, shovel, spring balance for weighing loads, communal wallet for kitty, black water bags for melting snow with waterproof closure and valve, spare cord for porters, binoculars. First Aid Kits (2 separate kits needed): Full Medical kit for basecamp, and kit for the climb. Kits should include as a minimum: light pain killers, heavy pain killers, antibiotics (Septra DS, erythomycin, Cipro), Flagyl for amoebic dysentery or Giardiasis, antidiarrheals, antibacterial ointment and wound items, eye wound items, iodine for purifying water, antihistimanes, anti- inflammatories, general repair kit, and items like sunscreen and moleskin. General repair kit: knife, small sewing kit, sewing awl and thread, duct tape, cloth tape, candles, baling wire, parachute cord, crampon tools and spare parts, nylon patches. Cooking gear for the climb: Two climbing stoves: one hanging propane/butane (Markill Stormy is best) with a length of uncoated malleable copper wire for constructing a heat exchanger, and one kerosene burning stove for melting snow (the MSR XGK is unsurpassed), repair kit, and fuel bottles (up to 10 liters). Count on one gas cannister or half liter of fuel per day for 2 people. In addition to Markill Stormy pots, one extra large pot with lid for melting snow.
WATER ON ROUTEAt 5000 meters above sea level, its been noted that the body needs approx 1 gallon per day to maintain fluid levels being lost by sweating, heavy breathing, and the diuretic effect of a hypoxic environment. The requirement increases with altitude so it becomes a constant struggle to consume enough water, especially if all water must be melted from snow. Insufficient water intake affects your performance and at altitude con be a contributory factor in pulmonary or cerebral edema and thrombosis (which also increases the chance of frostbite). It requires constant vigilance to ensure proper water intake; having a wide variety of drinks to consume helps (soups, teas, fruit drinks, cocoa, etc.)
NOTES ON ALTITUDEThe summits of Great Trango and Nameless are over 20,000 feet, so Acute Mountain Sickness (altitude sickness) is definitely to be considered, although the pace of a wall route, where climbers are usually averaging less than 500 feet of altitude gain per day, acclimatization is given time. Diamox has been used widely to prevent and to reduce the symptoms of AMS. Be aware that it is a diuretic, so additional fluids must be consumed, and also that some serious side effects have been reported.
The End
Appendix A: COMPLETE LIST OF ASCENTSNameless Tower Ascent Year Team Route
1st: 1976 British new route
2nd: 1987 Yugoslav (Cankar, Knez, Srot) new route
3rd: 1987 Swiss-French (Piola et al) new route (parapente descent)
4th: 1988 Swiss-Polish (Kurtyka, Loretan) new route
5th: 1988 German (et al) Yugoslav route
6th: 1988 German (Gullich, Albert et al) Yugoslav route (1st free ascent)
7th: 1989 Spanish (Gallego et al) new route
8th: 1989 German (Gullich, Albert, Stiegler) new route: The Eternal Flame
9th: 1990 Lowe/Destiville Yugoslav route
10th: 1990 Japanese Solo new route
11th: 1992 Spanish (Lorenzo,Santiago,Pepe) Kurtyka-Loretan route
12th: 1992 Spanish (Pepe, Kiki) Yugoslav route
13th: 1992 Korean (Young Chu et al) Yugoslav route
14th: 1992 Child/Wilford new route
Great Trango Tower-Main Summit(note: routes to the main summit are alpine climbs)
Ascent Year Team Route
1st 1977 Rowell,Schmitz,Hennek,Roskelly West Side (alpine route)
2nd 19? Swiss or French team??? West Side "
3rd 1985 Scott Wollums, Andy Selters NW ridge (alpine route)
4th 1988 Giordani (Italian) solo NW ridge "
5th (?) 1992 Australian (base-jumping team) NW ridge "
Great Trango Tower-East SummitAscent Year Team Route
1st 1984 Hans Christian Doseth, Finn Daelhi Norwegian Buttress
2nd 1992 John Middendorf, Xaver Bongard The Grand Voyage
Note: the Norwegian Buttress was climbed to the rim but not the summit by both a Japanese team in 1990 and a Spanish team in 1991.
APPENDIX B: GEAR:List of personal gear
Pile or polypro underlayer
Pile midlayer (pile jacket, pile pants)
Gore-tex outer layer (jacket, pants)
Down jacket and sweater
Hat, spare hat (nylon or Gore-tex covered), and neckwarmer
Gore-tex covered pile gloves or mitts, and spares
3 prs. medium weight pile or dachstein wool gloves (for climbing)
3 prs. warm socks
Plastic double boots
Trekking boots.
Base camp sneakers
Climbing boots
Helmet
Trekking poles and brim hat.
Clear flexible tube (1/2" ID x 4 foot length) for collecting water
Sunglasses and spares
Headlamp, extra bulbs and batteries, and spare mini-mag light
One liter water bottle
Camera, radio or tape player
Solar charger and rechargeable batteries
Lighters and pens of various types (some work better than others at
altitude (also make great gifts for the porters)
Personal mug and spoon
Ice Gear: 1 each ice tool and alpine hammer, ice screws, crampons
Bivy gear: 2 sleeping bags (one for basecamp, one for climb), bivy sack, basecamp tent, 3 insulation pads (2 for basecamp)
Large pack and day pack
Waterproof dry bags for personal items
Miscellaneous: many small packets of energy type drink mix., hacky sac, baggage tags.
APPENDIX C: COST OF EXPEDITIONList for 5 people to go into the mountains. Note: this list assumes that all members are fully outfitted with climbing, camping, and personal gear. Also excludes "kit" for Laision Officer and cook. Also excludes airfare to Rawalpindi.
Item Cost
Permit $1000
Food and fuel $2000 (mixed US/Rawalpindi costs)
Freight $ 800 (shipping cost of gear and food to
Rawalpindi)
Barrels $ 400
Agent (optional) $ 300
Kitchen for basecamp $ 120
Tarps $ 50
Insurance $ 150 (for porters, guide, cook, and LO)
Porter's gear (46 sets) $ 270
Transport to Skardu $ 500 (round trip, includes freight to Skardu)
Basecamp Cleaning $ 200 (mandatory "contribution")
Cook's fees(45 days) $ 350 (food and wages)
L.O.'s fees (45 days) $ 400 (food and wages)
Guide for porters $ 120
Jeeps to Askole $ 270 (3 jeeps w/ drivers @ $90 each)
Jeeps from Askole $ 90 (return trip to Skardu)
Porters-approach(46) $2300
Porters-return (18) $ 900
Hotels, food, taxis $ 350
Misc. fees, etc. $ 130
Total $10,700 for 5 people = $2140 each.
Appendix D: ReferenceMaps: available from Chessler Books 1-800-654-8502
Karakoram Maps (Leomann) Sheet 2 and 3, Scale1:200,000
Karakoram Maps (Swiss Foundation) Sheets 1 and 2, Scale 1:250,000
Mundik, Jammu and Kashmir (topographic) Scale 1:250,000
RETURN TO INDEX

Trango tower

2005-10-17T19:34:00.000+10:00

i want to climb this face

"GREAT TRANGO TOWERBY XAVER BONGARD
All the mountaineers who pass Urdukas , a necessary step on the road to the giants- K2, Gasherbrum 1 and 2, Broad peak, are able to admire the group of Trango Towers that reigns on the other side of the immense Baltoro glacier . The faces of the Great Trango Tower and Nameless Tower stand out among the most impressive walls in the world. Since the first and tragic ascent of the pillar from the Grand Tower in 1984, by two Norwegians who died on the descent, this mythical route has been followed only twice: once by the Japanese, who had to abandon their attempt below the summit, and then by the Spanish, who went only to the rim. Without doubt, the time had come to write a new page in "The Legend of the Big Walls". It was with this goal that we, John Middendorf, Ueli Bühler, François Studenmann, Ace Kvale (the photographer), and myself decided to return to the Karakoram: an international team that had trained its gaiters under all skies. I also had the crazy determination to attempt a BASE jump from the summit!
Rawwalpindi, Skardu, Askole, then finally the Dunge Glacier: June 23, 1992, the explosive Swiss-American team, accompanied by their forty six porters installed their camp at the foot of the D'Ouevre. Now it was necessary to find the route for which we had come here- a difficult task which we immediately embarked upon.
In comparison to its neighbor, Nameless Tower, The Great Trango Tower hardly offers lines of evident weakness. Not to mention objective dangers that considerably reduce our route options, the wall sits under the direct menace of a cornice of snow. Apparently, the only route by which to embark in front was to then veer off toward the right, where we observed a large flake. John would select the route. After his impressive record of first ascents on the American Big Walls, we naturally designated him to be the leading authority and guide of the group.
The Secrets of Ali Baba.The initial climb up the Edelweiss on the right bank of the suspended glacier is completed rapidly with three hundred meters of fixed ropes. When we had arrived at the foot of the Norwegian Pillar, dominated by a large serac, we decided to follow the base of the left wall by climbing the Ali Baba's couloir, which was often swept with avalanches. One small hitch--John and I had underestimated the dangers to which we would be exposed on this sunny slope. Never had we followed the old adage "run for your life" with such vigor! We did not intend to climb the couloir up to the top. Very rapidly, the grave dangers pushed us to enter into a noticeable cleft, The Canopy, where we discovered a place well protected by an overhang.
So, this bad weather disheartened the team stalled our progression. The snow caused avalanches that rendered the Ali Baba's pass impracticable for two days; the weather tortured our nerve endings to tempt us to find the key that would open the path to the mountain. The fifth of July: the majority of the team located on the Canopy, the highest point that we had reached, and in fact, the base of the true wall. In the course of the next three days, John and I fixed six lengths of rope, being two hundred and fifty meters total. After free- climbing the start of the route, we now had to prepare ourselves for a more technical climb. Progressing on hooks, we danced a veritable air-ballet balancing ourselves from one edge to the next. Often, we made ourselves really small underneath our helmets. With a beautiful unconsciousness, we had really discovered a route of choice.
From that moment on, the spirit of the team reached a difficult challenge, as opinions diverged on the best route to follow. Although the discussions were sometimes awkward, the three Swiss spoke only their native language. They, therefore, chose not to engage in the adventure with this group of strong personalities. For Ueli and François, the ascent became too technical and they decided to attempt a free climb on Nameless Tower. Selfishly, I felt relieved. On the other hand, I had to definitely abandon my plans to BASE jump because once we arrived at the summit, I could not let John descend by himself.
The Evil Spell of GolumSo, after a period of bad weather, we reembarked on July 13, transporting equipment to the Canopy (Camp3) and hauled our 120 kilograms of supplies to the top of pitch 5, that is to say, fifty kilograms of provisions (for twenty five days), forty litres of water, twenty cartridges of gas, three litres of gas for the stove, bivouac hammocks, plus all the gear for a "Yosemite style" big wall, and six ropes. Above Camp3 we fixed two hundred meters of rope. We made Camp 4 at the base of a corner we baptized "Golum's Gully" (Golum is an evil genie of LORD OF THE RINGS), and made a comfortable home at the base of the gully: one portaledge set up on the side. This could all seem very paradoxical, but we had reason to be very wary.
In the afternoon, as soon as the wall was in the shade, we embarked on the ascent of the wall. This attempt was quickly aborted as a cornice above us collapsed, and I emerged with a black eye and bruises all over my arms. We climbed for the next two nights, then, to reach the huge "Snowledge". Only five pitches of climbing in Golum's Gulley , but a delicate mixed climb nonetheless, and the irksome hoisting of our bags forced us to place our belays on the completely slippery left side of the corner.
When we had reached the snowledge , the curtain rose, and uncovered the Nameless Tower for us. We no longer had to be submissive to the mood swings of Golum, and we had reached the half-way mark of the climb, a very satisfying endeavor.
Following this direct line, we had reached the foot of the head wall without having to cross the long ridge of snow that connects the top of the Norwegian Pillar with the headwall, which is not flat but a long sloping ridge of snow three hundred meters long. Here, we were able to make our only unsuspended bivouac of the whole climb by digging a flat area. The snow also provided us with the water necessary for the second part of the climb.
The beginning of the wall was so thin that rurps, copperheads, and other cliff hangers were rendered useless. We had to borrow the Norwegians' pillar route for four pitches. After a fantastic pitch of 6b (5.11), we veered off the Norwegian route to the right only to find delicate seams that were undoubtedly the hardest part of the climb.
On that day, suffering from a stomach flu, John had to descend back down to the Snowledge. Once again, I found myself alone. So, peacefully I sampled a superb technical pitch. The next day, John still had not recuperated and I spent the day lugging the 50 litre water containers to the highest point, pitch 19.
Cold SweatsOn July 21, we hauled the rest of our gear to this last belay. John, who was undoubtedly trying to catch up, climbed several pitches in a row, hauling each pitch as he went- a coup d'eclat that makes you feel your weight. After the 18th pitch, it became possible to free climb; however, for reasons of speed and convenience, we continued to climb with the etriers most of the time. Certain pitches started in aid, and instead of changing for a free climb, it was more rational to not change materials mid-pitch.
Then the cracks started to get wider and wider, so we really did not have any choice, except to proceed by free climbing. After a systematic probing of the rack, we realized that we had left our big cams with Ueli and François. This was an unfortunate error that cost us a lot of effort and futile cold sweats as we struggled up the chimney pitches.
The twenty third pitch was now behind us. Instead of using the aid, I slipped up a narrow chimney. John, who was larger than I, had no chance of fitting through there. When I hauled the haulbags, I had to squeeze back into the chimney, and had remove my helmet which was too big to fit through. John followed the climb on the exterior. I was resting from this difficult effort, when I saw him fall and swing in an impressive pendular motion. He screamed and looked at his bloody hand. Shit, he lost a finger! I expected the worst, fortunately, when I looked more closely, it was only a superficial wound. This incident sent me into disturbing thoughts. What could have just happened? At first glance I saw that an flake above me that was part of the belay had detached under the pressure of a friend, and we had fallen underneath. 20 meters below, the flake had just missed John's ear. I had just taken my helmet off at that moment, but we had come out of it smelling like roses. We set up Camp Seven in the chimney, protected from all that could come from above.
A succession of chimneys and bad weather complicated our lives. Most of the time, the beginnings of the days were beautiful, but by afternoon it would either start to rain or snow. We did not let ourselves be beaten, however, and kept climbing until we were both soaked from head to toe and one of us took the initiative to return to the sanctuary of the portaledge. We then understood the meteorological cycle of the Baltoro: with a certain regularity, three days of good weather alternated with three days of bad weather.
The sight of a wall capped in snow and ice made our imaginations run wild, so that even the smallest tumbling of snow from above was met with great anxiety. Although, now, in the upper part, this detail lost little of its importance. One night at Camp 7, though, it started to snow, and all night until dawn, I had to clear off the snow that accumulated on our portaledge. John, plunged into a deep sleep, didn't even notice. This precipitation, however, had the noteworthy advantage of filling up our water barrel, replenishing our water supply.
In three days, we had not advanced more than a pitch and a half. Then, on July 26, the sun came back out illuminating the smooth summit wall, streaked with smooth grooves a meter wide, carved by erosion. Infatigable, John literally and rhythmically wormed a path through these wormholes. At the belay, I traded my fur climbing shoes for completely frozen plastic overboots. It was impossible to warm up in these conditions! I had them off for some superficial freezing (Frostbite?). Then the temperature generally rose to such a point that we were rarely had to wear gloves to climb.
The Snares of TrangoAnother pitch, short and easy, we reached the rim and the rock pillar was behind us. What a relief. In a few rappels, we had rejoined our last platform, "The Yellow Submarine", which we had dubbed our portaledge home at Camp 7.
The next day, when we had equipped ourselves for the final glacial climb from the rim to the summit, cries reached us from Nameless Tower. But this time it had nothing to do with the usual cries of joy of our companions. At the same time on the radio, I caught, "Shit, I broke my leg!" What could we do now? The situation was dramatic, but not critical. After having discussed it on the radio with Ace, staying down below, we concluded that their descent would take several days and that the two hours more or less (that is to say, the time that it would take to reach the summit) would not make that big of a difference. Ace left immediately for Paju, the closest military base, in order to get help and to get a helicopter to pick up our partners back at the base camp (in Pakistan, helicopters do not go any higher). Ueli and Francois had to allow two days to descend by their own means.
Still in shock over this accident, I climbed the last snow and ice covered pitches that lead to the summit with mixed feelings. This varied terrain offered an ascent that was complicated, and the difficulty of which I underestimated. At several reprises, I was literally swallowed up to my chest by snow, to such a point that I began to question if I would ever arrive at the summit. The deep snow training that I had in the Cordillera Blanca turned out to be quite beneficial. By instinct, I opened up a path to the summit like the Norwegians had done eight years ago: I discovered several of their belays on the way. To meet up with the ridge of the summit, and to find a solid layer, I had to dig in the snow like a mole. As soon as I started to seriously doubt our chances of success, I suddenly found myself sitting on the summit like the blade of a knife, hidden under a deep layer of snow. A final act of bravery!
SUMMIT!Sixteenth day, right before sunset, the summit of the Grand Tower of Trango is 6, 231 meters. A dream became reality. John comes. An emotional moment. We hugged each other. "Good job fucker !" We engrave the fantastic panorama into our memories. Later, we will have all the time to marvel at it. For the moment, it is time to leave as the sun will disappear in a half of an hour.
An hour after nightfall, we had reached the top of the wall and three hours later we reached shelter in our little titanium house. The next day we let our heaviest gear go. The water container exploded against the wall after falling a few meters. With this, my base jump project had no chance of success, and I could descend with a peaceful conscience.
We allowed forty eight hours to return to the Canopy, at the beginning of the wall. It was so hot during those last two days that Ali Baba' Couloir had become pretty dangerous, even at night. After hesitating for a while, we crossed the wall at dawn and rappelled down the rock slab on the other side. The base of the wall was approaching. In the course of the climb, you feel strong, invincible, and ready to face any dangers, then during the descent, courage abandons you.
The last rappels, crevasses, objective risks, crampon problems, slides; then the last danger was behind us. After forty four interminable rappels, we had finally reached the cows' floor, the good old Dunge glacier. Finally, we relished in the security that we had so desired from the top, liberated from the prison that we had voluntarily locked ourselves in.
The next day we left in search of the rest of our gear. One of our sacks had fallen from the cornice and had rolled to the moraine. Normally, Ace would have been able to help us by indicating where our gear was, but he was busy with the rescue of our companions. We easily located the blue water container as well as the foam mattress. I ventured in the direction of our gear only to quickly turn back, too afraid of the real danger that the cornice would collapse. As for John, he could not find his ski poles. They had been buried by rockfall that had occurred while we were on route. Once again, the mountain had slammed the door in our noses. The Grand Tower spoke, "Hey little man, go away!. You have pierced me with dozens of holes, you've changed me enough. Leave me alone so that I can regain my strength and create icy avalanches that are better and more fantastic than those that I have given you this year. INCH Alla!"
RETURN TO INDEX

what's going on

2005-10-07T01:16:00.000+10:00

i don't really get whats going on with this presentation but i'll do my best. i just hope everything doesen't come down to how well i can publicly qualtify how i have changed.

Here you go :)

2005-09-21T22:24:00.000+10:00

1st Soumitri to be honest I did come to design school to learn about design and to become a good designer, to a lesser extent I also came to design school to get some accreditation. But I believe that everyone is a designer, from the man who invents technologically advanced medical products to the man who trims banzai in his spare time. Many don’t agree with this, I don’t care I’ve always considered myself a designer, I guess I just never knew the word for it. I chose to do your studio because I believe in innovation, not reinvention, I believe the only way to innovate is by learning new ways of thinking, new ways of solving new problems.

2nd Before we started your studio I didn’t know, as many people, what it was about, but it seemed risky, uncertain. I like taking risks, because with risks come the greatest rewards, most of mine have been, in the past, physical risks, rock climbing ect. But after six years of working, with little or no intellectual risk I decided to go to school at night and try to get into uni. And I did. So, I took another risk joining your studio class. But now it doesn’t seem that risky anymore and I need another. I don’t feel anxious, another mental boundary breached. I thought that was the point. It is the point. The only reason I was pissed off, even though it only lasted a minute or two was because you asked for structure. Unfortunately I am conditioned with a whole lot of preconceptions that come along with the word “ structure”/ planned, form, frame, process, ect.

3rd Cad doesn’t mean any thing, I use it because I can’t draw, because I have difficulty getting ideas out of my head. It can be learnt in one semester.

4th The Busan project wasn’t as measured as it appeared, I just started drawing things, then one of them looked like a worm with spikes on it so I made a back story for the whole thing, and it fit. Modeled it up for practice and I liked it. Honestly structure and process is something I have trouble with but I’ve always managed to find a way to justify what I’ve done, mostly through BS. I have always felt like I have had to, to validate it and you know what I probably do. Just not in this class. Good/Bad I don’t know, I’m just putting it out there. I don’t know if this means I am thinking with the right brain or if I’m thinking with the left, or if it means I’m lazy.

5th There is no need for an apology, although it’s been weeks since you posted it and I missed the next class, but I’m sure by now you realize that.

6th Any run ins we’ve had have been important, I believe that they have contributed as significantly to the “PROCESS” as anything else, perhaps more. If I’m angry, anxious, annoyed. If your angry, anxious, annoyed, then I’m probably breaking down some of those mental boundries, trying to come to terms with something that I don’t understand. I feel that the times that frustrated me the most were the most beneficial. When we talked about redesigning the course it occurred to me during our forum with you that making it easier for the students next year would cause them to miss out on those moments. I’m sure there are moments that you would of liked to have avoided, but I think they’re those are important to. Then again I stand in the rain because I don’t want to miss the moment, because the worst thing you can have is regrets. I’m rambling so I’ll go to bed.

One more thing, in the very first class when I got pissed of because you compared me to George Bush. I didn’t get anything out of it. You misunderstood what I was saying.

Teick27

Long time no see

2005-09-18T21:01:00.000+10:00

i have had an interesting 4 or so weeks. I have moved house twice and some other crap but really what i have done is neglect my blog. So consider this the beggining of another chapter in this adventure. Ok

As far as studio has gone i have almost finidhed my Reece and Busan competition entries, and i'm just messing around with body type at the moment. On other fronts i am finding my efforts to get an interview with John So to be relativly unsuccesfull, However i am making some progress. After being told several times that it would not be possible i have now got to the stage where i have been asked to submit complete list of questions i will be asking as well as if i will be auraly or visually documenting it. I get the feeling like they are looking for some kind of young melbournian publicity thing but i'll take it.

I have visited the immigration museum and the ford discovery centre, interesting but dull. I wnt to spencer street and coulden't get hold of any kind of project manager but had a good chat with some concreters doing touch ups about how much of a prick parts of the job were.

WHats next--- TANTO SUSHI BOARD ?

One last thing. I haven't started my edward debono talking hats paper, or the intraspective, which at this stage looks like will be dropped. i'm just not sure how to go about it.

I haven't started on the project managment paper either. But i havent got an email saying i'm in risk of failing so i guess it's not that bad however i think i'll have a busy few weeks to forfill my commitments to reach the grade i elected, but i figure thats the point.

UPDATE ON CAD

2005-08-28T11:01:00.000+10:00

I'm going well on my pneumatic bed. heres some pictures , the big curvy bit on top is a fleaxable gel matress

I"M damaged

2005-08-15T11:53:00.000+10:00

Sorry to everyone for not being at school today, i was really looking forward to playing the other two games. I hope i haven't let anyone down. I'll see you all next monday.

MORE CARDS

2005-08-11T17:20:00.000+10:00

Heres some mock cards we made in the first week working on the game.

-Dead man tell no lies
- if you can't stand the heat get out of the fire
-what goes up must come down
-what you lose on the swings you make up for on the roundabout
-many hands make light work
-every cloud has a silver lining
-a stich in time saves nine
-out of the frying pan and into the fire
-if all you have is a hammer then everything will look like a nail.
,-produs, -cry, -bang, -swim, -earth, -orange, -poor, -rich, -pink, -smash, -eat, -drink, -sit, -scream, -fast, -grown, jump, march, walk, steel, aluminium, borrowed, craft, used, slow, launch, crack, russle, fire, wind, stretch, new, cud, water.

THE...................CARDS

2005-08-08T22:17:00.000+10:00

Heres the cards everyone helped us with today. Thanks again class, plus some that jeremy sent me.

Check out some of the poetry. Thanks guys for some weird shit

CARDS

MEDIA
-3D
-2D
-film
-written
-performance

DYNAMIC
Sharp, zappy, flight, runny, flow, transform, lightning, unpredictable, bofin, roller, bouncy, slippery, spinning, static, tension, spongy, swing, directed, expand, angular, squishy, spring, stand, run, jump, ski, fly, carry, ride, drive, sit, crawl, speak, skip, hop, smoke, read, fall, drink, build, wedge, jog, wait, plot, sail, climb, leap, speed, shine, wait, pick, tweak, buy, jam, flip, arrange, roll, crank, turn, cram, steer, pull, lift, fetch, carry, pack, throw, hide, wrap.

SAYING

- You don’t cross the river to get water
- There is more than one way to skin a cat
- Still waters run deep
- I don’t need no civil war
- Come on get happy
- Don’t take apples from talking snakes
- Google this
- Eat your greens
- Don’t bite off more than you can chew
- Too many cooks spill the broth
- Are you talking to me
- I spy with my little eye,….something blue
- Keep your friends close but keep your enemies closer.
- Lightning never strikes in the same place twice
- Don’t judge a book by its cover
- He who smiles is an idiot
- Don’t place all your eggs in one basket
- Small things amuse small minds
- It takes one to know one
- There is no time like the present
- They don’t make things like they used to
- Every time a door closes a new one opens
- An apple a day keeps the doctor away
- The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree
- What goes up must come down
- What goes around comes around
- Just do it
- You can’t do anything without labour
- Hard work never killed anybody
- A friend in need is a friend indeed
- To be forewarned is to be forearmed
- Don’t judge a book by it’s cover
- Third time lucky
- Too put the cart before the horse

POETRY

-ON certain survivors: When the man dragged himself from under the debris of his shelled house he shook himself off and said never again,

at least not right away

-Daughter
stamp collections, what does it amount to, becoming light as a butterfly when you see a butterfly stamp flying away like a bird when you see a bird stamp

-Leave your blond eagle trace
Destroy your cheek against the wild maize,
Everything will be devoured in the land

-THE MUSES
When the brazen one beats them
The muses sing louder
With blackened eyes
They adore him like bitches
Their buttocks twitch with pain
Their thighs with lust

-And when it happens , there will be no fuss, no streets running with blood, no baracade. We shall simply wait one morning to discover as those, who ruled the city before us.
Found by each door a headstone and a spade, that a new generation has taken over.

-WE are matched with ourselves, thread to the eye of a needle, face on, out to win. The fourth angle of the circle almost revives.

-VERKEHRT EINGESPANNT

When I woke, I woke a breathless black, of the box, I heard the earth

-The culture-mine

-Yes always though you said it first you the quicksand and sand and grass. As I wave toward you feely, the ego-ridden sea. There is a light that neither of us will obscure , ribbing it all white. Saving ships form fucking up on the rocks.

-Once I swallowed a bird
felt like a cage at first, but now sometimes my flesh flutters and I think I could go mad for joy.

-A bottomless pit
eyes bulged out
across it
neck stretched
over it

-Moonlight, and the big elusive horses.

-I have a saint that looks over me he has never understood me and still he tells me what to do.

-COME GREAT CHEIFS
stir from afar
I too bring my people to dance
I surrender them into your hands

-Hear that rattling
those aren’t marbles in my head they are chains on my ankles

-I insult the bourgeois
The metal money bourgeois,
The bourgeois-bourgeois
The well made sau-paulo digestion
The belly man
The buttocks man

-Love me Japanese woman,
Japanese woman of old, who doesn’t know about western nations.

THE GAMES RULES

2005-08-08T21:50:00.000+10:00

THE corporation GAME

Teams can be made up of any number of players as long as teams are even, but under 10 is recommended.

There is a minimum of two teams needed to play the corporation game and a maximum of four

All teams will select a corporation card from the corporation deck and must play the game to for fill that corporation’s purpose. Each corporation has only one purpose.

-Green corporation: to produce environmentally friendly or supportive outcomes.
-Blue corporation: to produce expensive outcomes for the wealthy.
-Grey corporation: to produce cheap or free outcomes for the poor and needy.
-Red corporation: to produce outcomes for mass manufacture and maximum profit.

There are four categories of cards apart from the corporation cards.
These are
-media
-adage
-poem
-dynamic/ words

One of each category must be chosen.

You must adhere to the cards that you pick up in their literal meaning e.g. if a card says jump then you cannot make a jumper unless it is otherwise supported. This rule does not include representative or inspirational cards such as those with prose, sayings or images on them.

Every round goes for 3hrs a timekeeper will be nominated at the beginning of the round at random and will observe the competitors arrival back at the game origin. All work must be submitted by the deadline any corporations that submit after the deadline automatically receive an unsatisfactory result.

If you task is deemed successful you are presented with a blank card that can be used in the next round of play. In can be substituted for any card category but must be assigned as something and placed into a category before other cards are seen, and all other card must still be used. Cards from the left over categories must be chosen

I your task is deemed to be adequate you have no consequence for the next round of play.

If your task is deemed unsuccessful you will receive a fifth card after one and a half hours that must then be used.

If you fail to complete your task with a fifth card ‘YOU ARE OUT OF THEGAME’.

Corporations deemed successful can amalgamate teams removed from the game into their team. In the event that two teams wish to gain extra players the time keeper will disperse the extra players in a 1,2,1,2 or green, blue, green, blue system moving clockwise with no bias or deliberate choice.

If your corporation completes the task in a round when all other teams are working with five cards and they fail ‘YOU WIN THE CORPOPRATION GAME’.

BLOG Colors

2005-08-07T20:53:00.000+10:00

i've been messing around with the template code and have found that any number or code that begins with # is a color. otherwise it may just say black or white, or red or somthing. Anyway if you want to change the color you can insert a different code in these areas. As for what the different areas do you just have to look at the rest of the sequence for clues. to change the main color in the first few lines there will be the word background with a code next to it. and if you want a picture of your own there then it the url goes after. heres the line of my code which has this stuff in it. i'll put the color code and url in italics so it's alittle easier to understand. don't forget to put the url in ' marks

body{margin:0px;padding:0px;background:#856c48 url('http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b388/teick/chimeracopy.jpg') bottom left no-repeat fixed;color:#000000;font-family:Verdana,Lucida Grande,Arial,Sans-Serif;font-size:small}

you can get all the color codes at colormatch 5k

i've only been blogging a few weeks and standard blogs suck so get creative, hope this helps.
If you play around with the colors you soon see what they relate to and can change spacing and shit. i found it pretty quick to pick up .

heres the link for the image with the highlights and shit on it. ttp://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b388/teick/blogcode.jpg

DESIGN STUDIES

2005-08-07T17:16:00.000+10:00

I HAVE CREATED A NEW STUDIES Blog CALLED

#TEICKWORKS>> @ teickworks.blogspot.com

Sorry ben i lost your email

2005-08-07T13:48:00.000+10:00

Sorry ben i lost your email but heres what was sent to me when i enquired about standards

With regards to the competition guidelines, please see our website at http://www.bathroominnovation.com.au/

With regards to plumbing regulations and standards these are available atthe SAI Global (Australian Standards) website. Having said this, we are notexpecting you to know or list these standards. Most items can be slightlyaltered in design to meet these.Hope this helps.

Andrew Williamson
Reece PlumbingRetail Development Coordinator
118 Burwood HwyBurwood Vic 3125P
(03) 9274 0107F
(03) 9274 0131

Busan

2005-08-02T15:35:00.000+10:00

I think i'll see if i can cast the cucumber in resin or some kind of transparent silicone or rubber.

SATCHI & SATCHI award and cad class

2005-08-02T15:14:00.000+10:00

the competition i was entering is closed but i will continue with my design and hopefully find somwhere else to enter it. heres som pictures of the solidworks model. It is a bed designed to prevent pressure sores, which can devistate peoples lives causing amputations and even death through infection. It could also be used for some aspects of phusical therapy. Every three hours the beds slats will change position to releive pressure. three hours is the period of time which after pressure sores start to develop.

busan concept

2005-08-02T14:57:00.000+10:00

i've continued with my smoothed ot sea cucumber but i put some fins on it. i'm having fun messing around with this and i think it is a good representation of my intentions. i'm hoping to put it in some water so that when the tide is out only part of it will be visable. I'll mock it up max and see whats going on.

busan concxept pictures

REECE

2005-08-02T14:43:00.000+10:00

some pics of what i'm working on

Reece design award/ fauset

2005-07-22T22:20:00.000+10:00

some pictures of my fauset concept . It is only the top section of it. It will have a steell seat and two tubes coming down to suspend it off the counter. The idea is that with low pressure you recieve a steady narrow stream and with high pressure you recieve a wide waterfall type flow. It' is meant to bridge the gap beetween practical uses and the high end designer bathroom fittings.
it would be made out of or appear as a fine grain stone

These are pictures of the seat for the steel mixer and elevation pipes.

lantern sail

2005-07-21T20:02:00.000+10:00

heres som pictures of the finall lantern. I'm pretty happy with it i filled the cavity with ripped crate paper to randomise the way the light is diffused. I also painted lines on it with glue to make those sections transparent.

Roula

2005-07-20T21:51:00.000+10:00

chrome is quick and easy but the actual product will have a textured middle section and will not have a chrome finish.

ROULA water control device/ tap concept

2005-07-20T21:43:00.000+10:00

here are some renderings from the model i threw together. the clear base is to see inside the bottom housing.

Reece bathroom design award

2005-07-20T21:09:00.000+10:00

I'm going to enter in the reece bathroom design competition with a concept i've had for a while but it will need some refinment. It revolves around a low resistance water flow control device for people with arthritis or with missing or deformed limbs. i don't know if this is part of my studio due to the preconception of the concept but i'll do it anyway. It could lead to manufacturing of of it and could potentialy help many people.

Don't ask what you can do for the corporation, ask what the corporation can do for you

paper sail/lantern

2005-07-20T19:54:00.000+10:00

here are some pics of the started lantern.

Paper................lantern?

2005-07-20T19:40:00.000+10:00

I'm making my lantern as sail type thing that will fit in the corner of a room the idea is that it will not encapsulate the light but shield us from it and it from us. It will create a similar aesthetic to a piece of illuminated sculpture....hopefully.

Korean sea cucumbers

2005-07-20T17:09:00.000+10:00

I found this article about korean sea cucumbers. they seem to have an interesting form.

Sea Cucumbers in Korea
June 16, 2001From: S. Katcher
I was recently in Pusan, Korea. On the beach there, there were a number of sea animals in tanks outside of small fish eateries. One animal was a pink-colored, tube-like, seemingly hollow form of at least 12 inches that undulated in the tank. It had no eyes or other obvious sensory features that I noticed (although I assume it had sense organs somewhere). It seemed to have an opening at one end. It reminded me of a long party balloon, except instead of having the balloon knotted at one end to keep the air in, there was just an opening.
The people we were with said that in Korean the animal is called "kaybuhl." In Japan, we were told that there is a smaller version of the animal called "namako." When we looked up the definition of the words, the English translation was "trepang" and "a sea cucumber." I do not think the animal we saw was a sea cucumber, however.
Is anyone familiar with this particular species that I have described? Can you refer me to a book or other source that would have a photograph?Thank you.S. Katcher
s_katcher@hotmail.comKatcher, S., 2001 (Jun 16) Sea Cucumbers in Korea. [Message in] Sea Slug Forum. Australian Museum, Sydney. Available from http://www.seaslugforum.net/find.cfm?id=4578
Dear S. Katcher,There are different sorts of sea cucumbers, some hard and leathery others soft with waves of muscle contrcations down their bodies which would fit your description of undulating. I don't know the Korean word but the Japanese 'namako' is a sea cucumber. If you have a look at a page on the Nagasaki Marine Lab ebsite you will see a set of photos showing the gutting process that occurs before the animal is dried for storage.http://www.marinelabo.nagasaki.nagasaki.jp/kakou/hiraki/namako.html.

Korean sea anenomes are alsoo interesting

BUSAN

2005-07-20T16:46:00.000+10:00

After looking at my options ofr the sea festival i've decided to create an expressive form of a native sea creature from korea. Probably a rounded and smooth shape. I want to create a form that will interact with the water, the tides, the wind ect. perhaps create somthing that appears differently when submerged partly with the high tide. or somthing in which water will run in and out of as waves moveinto or up against it. I will research native animals more as well as the type of conditions the sea develops in Busan.

Sea urchin

2005-07-19T18:05:00.000+10:00

another form for inspiration

sea amenome

2005-07-19T17:56:00.000+10:00

another interesting creature found around korea

lowRIDER

2005-07-19T16:57:00.000+10:00

CADDY

BUSAN

2005-07-19T16:46:00.000+10:00

After looking at my options ofr the sea festival i've decided to create an expressive form of a native sea creature from korea. Probably a rounded and smooth shape. I want to create a form that will interact with the water, the tides, the wind ect. perhaps create somthing that appears differently when submerged partly with the high tide. or womthing inwhich water will run in and out of as waves moveinto or up against it. I will research native animals more as well as the type of conditions the sea develops in Busan.

Busan Sea Art

2005-07-18T16:40:00.000+10:00

I'm going to enter somthing into the busan sea art festival as part of my studio.

First there was ?

2005-07-18T09:05:00.000+10:00

Here are some note i've been taking from The Corporation Game first year studio, and some other stuff i put down.

Studio 2 THE CORPORATION

Questioning technique
- What is it?
Why is it why it is?
What would you like it to be?
What else can it be?

7ft Paper lanterns
-Wire
-Craft paper ect
-Glue
-Thin wire
No necessarily lanterns

Contract
13 lectures
2 studio exercises
2 public lectures
13 films
2 field trip
1 paper
1 assignment investigation
1 case study of designer who has changed the world

????????

The CORPORATION contract outline?

I will listen to 13 lectures, complete 2 studio excercises, see 2 public lectures, watch 13 films, go on two field trips, write one paper, complete one investigation assignment of an emerging issue, and one case study of a designer who has changed the world.

FILMS TO SEE

ACME>>>>>

Homelands now
Corporation
12,000 men
Catskinner keen
Challenger an industrial romance
A democratic time bomb
The millennium time bomb
The contest of power
Uncle saddam
Against the innocent
Child soldiers
Jin-roh: wolves in human armour
The sinking of the rainbow warrior
Terrorism
Design for assembly
London underground map
Streamlines
Seeds of revolution
Murder in purdah
Africa before the Europeans
Father ,sons, and holy wars

OTHER FILMS
Out foxed- about rupert murdoch's manipulation of media
The corporation
The game
Boiler room
Wall street
The firm
Charlie chaplain modern times
Tucker
My architect

Ingmar bergman? who?

www.corpwatch.org

CEO Greed is Out of Control
by Holly Sklar
Z magazine, June 1998

When's the last time you had a 224 percent raise? Don't laugh. That's what American Express CEO Henry Golub got last year. Average CEO pay went up 35 percent in 1997 to $7.8 million, according to Business Week's recent executive pay survey. Even without all the extras like subsidized luxury housing, gourmet meals, country clubs, top-notch health care, and investment advice, average CEO pay comes to $150,000 a week.
Average worker pay went up 3 percent last year-all the way to $424 a week. Workers still earn less in wages, adjusting for inflation, than they did in the 1970s.
The average CEO made 326 times the pay of factory workers last year-up from 209 times factory workers' pay in 1996. Back in 1980, when many more workers were unionised, the CEO-worker wage gap was much smaller: CEOs made 42 times as much as factory workers.
To get a good picture of the growing CEO-worker wage gap, imagine the Washington Monument. That's what the Boston-based organization United for a Fair Economy (UFE) did. UFE found that if the 555-foot Washington Monument reflects average 1997 CEO pay, then a replica representing average worker pay would be just 21 inches tall. The Workers Monument shrunk almost a foot in a year. In 1996, it was 32 inches. Back in 1970, the Workers Monument was 13 feet, 6 inches tall-reflecting a CEO-worker wage gap of 41 to one.
UFE built the Workers Washington Monument and unveiled it at a Capitol Hill press conference for the National Campaign to Close the Wage Gap. UFE co-director Chuck Collins says, "In 1970, it would have required a pick-up truck to transport the Workers Washington Monument. By 1996, you could carry on an airplane and put it in the overhead luggage bin. The 1997 model fits easily in the little space under the seat. If current trends continue, the 1998 Workers Monument will fit in my pocket."
You can check out your favourite companies in Business Week and at the AFL-CIO's web site on CEO pay-www.paywatch.org. The AFL-CIO tells you how many workers or U.S. presidents it would take to match the pay of particular CEOs and shows you how much health insurance, day care, and other goods CEO salaries could buy. You can also compare your own salary to that of CEOs.
Up, Up, and Away
The really big money is not in CEO salary and bonuses, but in their stock options, long-term incentive plans, and other perks. Top-earning CEO Sanford Weill of the Travellers Group made a hefty $7.4 million in salary, but $223.3 million more in stock options and other long-term compensation, for total 1997 pay of $230.7 million. That's over $4 million a week. In 1996, Weill made a mere $94.2 million. The planned merger of Travelers and Citicorp has already swelled Weill's fortune by boosting the stock prices of both companies.
CEOs are benefiting greatly from the recent cut in the long-term capital gains tax from 28 percent to 20 percent. For every $1 million in long-term capital gains on the sale of stock, they'll pay $80,000 less in taxes.
The 1997 pay survey doesn't "even reflect the largest single option sale ever," says Business Week. In December, Disney CEO Michael Eisner exercised 7.3 million stock options worth over $400 million. But, since the sale came after the close of Disney's fiscal year, Eisner's windfall won't show up until next year's pay survey. Eisner has more stock option fortunes to come.
Corporations keep finding new ways to enrich their CEOs. A growing number of companies are paying multi-million dollar "retention bonuses" to CEOs who have no intention of leaving. "From huge signing or retention bonuses to perks such as tax planning and jet use in perpetuity, to exit packages that guarantee big bucks even if an exec is chased out of office, financial risk is virtually eliminated," says Business Week.
Take the former head of Apple Computer, Gilbert Amelio. As the Wall Street Journal noted in its executive pay report, Apple lost nearly $2 billion during Amelio's brief tenure of 17 months. Some 3,600 employees lost their jobs. Amelio's golden parachute included $6.7 million in severance pay plus other compensation. Amelio said the Apple package "didn't protect my downside as well as I had hoped it would. "
In their report, Executive Excess: CEOs Gain from Massive Downsizing, United for a Fair Economy and
the Institute for Policy Studies feature a "Downsizer Dozen" of "CEOs who rolled in the dough while dumping thousands of workers."
The "Canned-Id Camera" award went to Eastman Kodak who downsized 20,100 workers while putting CEO compensation through the enlarger. CEO George Fisher's total 1997 compensation, including stock options, was $17 million. Kodak has announced new layoffs this year, estimating an additional 16,600 layoffs by 1999.
Whirlpool Corporation got the "Putting Workers Through the Wringer Award." Whirlpool announced 4,700 layoffs in 1997 and gave CEO David Whitwam a 133 percent hike in total compensation. In January, Whirlpool announced additional layoffs of 3,200 workers.
American Express got the "Don't Lose Your Job Without It Award." The company announced layoffs of 3,300 workers in 1997. CEO Harvey Golub reaped a 224 percent pay increase, bringing his total compensation to $33.4 million.
The "Pink Slip Barbie" award went to Mattel. The company announced over 3,174 job cuts in 1997 and gave CEO Jill Barad $10.7 million.
Wall Street executive Julian Robertson says it well: "Everybody here is overpaid, knows they are overpaid and is determined to continue to be overpaid." Management guru Peter Drucker has long been disgusted with the "unconscionable greed of CEOs." In an interview with Wired magazine, he endorsed banker J.P. Morgan's idea that the proper ratio "between the top people and the rank and file should be twenty-fold, post-tax...Beyond that, you create social tension."
Right now, taxpayers help pay for outrageous CEO salaries because corporations can deduct them as a business expense. The Income Equity Act, introduced by Rep. Martin Sabo (D-MN), would cap the deductibility of executive compensation at 25 times that of the lowest paid full-time company worker. The act now has over 45 co-sponsors.
The Income Equity Act is one of the measures supported by the National Campaign to Close the Wage Gap, which has over 300 member organizations. To learn more about the campaign, visit the United for a Fair Economy web site-www.stw.org.
If the minimum wage had kept pace with CEO salaries since 1960, reports Executive Excess, the 1997 minimum wage would have been nearly $41 an hour.

Holly Sklar is the author of Chaos or Community Seeking Solutions, Not Scapegoats for Bad Economics and a member of the board of United for a Fair Economy.

Submitted by ben2bad on Wed, 05/04/2005 - 00:13.
Money is the mothers milk of politics and corporations have the money to lobby, i.e. buypolitical favors. Politicians, Corporations, and Santa Clause are one in the same. They relynot on our stupidity, but on our lack of common sense. They use the media to divert ourshort attention spans toward protecting marraige from homosexuals, porn, and the right tochoose as if these are causing the decline of family values while they air an advertismentfor alcohol which you drink because you barely make ends meet and can’t feed yourchildren and the frustration mixed with alcohol becomes spousal abuse. While your beatingyour wife up, your children feel anxious and become obsessive compulsive and see anadvertisement for some piece of corporate crap that they want in order to fill thatemptiness inside, and the corporations smile. And while your attention is diverted theyremove another basic right from you. Soon we believe we can’t survive withoutcorporations, when the truth is corporations can’t survive without us.

The CEO’s Best Friend
by Steven C. Day
“... [G]reed, for lack of a better word, is good. Greed is right. Greed works.”- Gordon Gekko
“Money often costs too much”- Ralph Waldo Emerson
If Gordon Gekko, the slick corporate deal maker played by Michael Douglas in the film Wall Street, were around today, he would be a happy man (assuming, of course, he managed to get out of the legal scrape he was in at the end of the movie). Two things are clear about Gekko: He loves corporate greed above all else, and, largely because of that greed, he is undoubtedly a Republican.
As it happens, corporate greed is in vogue again. And yes, George W. Bush has more than justified Gekko’s presumed faith in the GOP as corporate greed’s benefactor.
Greed is a hard thing to define in a capitalist society. It’s sort of like Justice Potter Stewart’s famous statement about pornography: You can’t define it, but you know it when you see it. The fact that a CEO of a major corporation draws a fat paycheck isn’t evidence of greed, for example, since anyone doing that big a job deserves high pay. But Sanford Weill, CEO of Citigroup, receiving a compensation package that netted him $224.4 million last year, is plainly a different matter.
Mel Brooks said it best in The History of the World, Part I: “It’s good to be the king.” And this is certainly true in corporate America today. While top corporate executives may not be treated like royalty in all respects (although they are in most), they are, without doubt, receiving salaries that would make Prince Charles jealous. The average annual compensation package for a CEO of a major U.S. corporation last year, while a good deal less than Weill’s windfall, weighed in at a healthy $20 million -- that’s right $20 million. And I’ll bet they got good medical coverage, too.
The Light of Day
This figure includes a 50 percent increase in stock options and a 22 percent increase in salary and bonuses from the year before -- all at a time when the market was performing poorly and many investors were hurting. Hourly workers averaged only a 3 percent pay hike during the same period, while salaried employees did only marginally better with a 4 percent increase.
This disparity between the CEO haves and the worker have-nots is nothing new. A joint study by the Institute for Policy Studies and United for a Fair Economy, released in September 1999, found that average worker pay rose from $22,952 per year in 1990 to $29,267 in 1998, a 28 percent increase compared to a 22.5 percent inflation rate. During those same years, average compensation for the top two executives in each of the 365 largest companies increased from $1.8 million to $10.6 million -- a 481 percent increase.
Looking at it from a different angle, the average CEO made 42 times more than the average blue-collar worker in 1980, 85 times more in 1990 and a full 531 times more in 2000.
And don’t forget that these are publicly held corporations, owned by their stockholders. So, if you happen to own a little Citigroup stock (or more likely are in a mutual fund or retirement account holding its shares), then Sanford Weill’s extreme good fortune comes at your expense.
There are many other reasons in addition to direct diminution in shareholder value as to why these bloated pay schemes are bad both for the companies and for society in general. For one thing, stock options, which make up the biggest part of most packages, give CEOs strong financial incentive to pursue policies that maximize short-term gains, at the expense of long-term corporate growth.
As a result, research and development suffer, weakening the company’s long-term outlook. This get-rich-quick mentality also has contributed to the popularity of the new corporate religion of downsizing: What’s the lifelong dedication of thousands of company employees, after all, when compared to a two-point bump in the market?
At the same time, super-sized executive pay packages are bad for the morale of employees remaining with the company. Corporate employees -- both blue and white collar -- increasingly see themselves as overworked, underpaid and, perhaps worst of all, unappreciated. It’s a fair guess that they don’t get a warm and fuzzy feeling when they hear that the boss just took home $224.4 million bucks.
So what makes Bush the best friend to CEOs like Sanford Weill? His tax cut plan is a big part of it, of course. While most Americans will receive a tax cut of, at most, a few hundred dollars, Weill, assuming he continues his winning ways, will get millions.
Of course, there’s a down side to this particular example of welfare for the rich: As the Bush Administration is now tacitly admitting, the tax cut (together with the economic downturn) has blown the budget surplus, making a return to deficit spending seem imminent. Even now, Bush & Co. is prying away at the Social Security “lock box” with a crowbar, looking for a way to cover the shortfall.
I have to wonder what Bush would say if he were forced to defend his tax policies before a group of working stiffs at Citigroup. Would he tell them that Sanford Weill’s compensation package is reasonable? If not, why is he rewarding this type of greed through his tax cut? Make no mistake, this will have long-term consequences for our culture: The “wealth gap” between the very rich and the rest of society is growing year by year. Already, the richest 1 percent of the population holds more wealth than the bottom 95 percent combined, according to Edward Wolff, a professor of economics at New York University and a leading authority on the subject of wealth distribution. Under Bush’s tax plan, this disparity is certain to grow.
Meanwhile, the president continues to push forward with the rest of his corporate-friendly agenda. There’s no doubt about it: George W. Bush’s America is a great place to be the CEO of a major corporation.
These benefits did not, of course, come completely free of charge. Bush’s romance with big business has been a decidedly two-way affair. Let’s face it, Bush wouldn’t have had a prayer of being “elected” president if it were not for two things -- his daddy’s name, and the fact that with the help of that name he was able to raise a mountain of cash from corporate interests.
The chase for corporate campaign contributions in last year’s election was really no contest. Bush smoked Gore in every sector, often by a factor of 10 to one. Corporate America bet the farm on Bush. MBNA America Bank, for instance, which had a big stake in the so-called bankruptcy reform bill passed by Congress under Bush’s stewardship earlier this year, contributed (directly and through corporate executives) a total of $3,555,905 during the 2000 election cycle, with 86 percent of it going to the GOP. Many other companies gave almost as much.
So far at least, it’s looking like they made one hell of a good investment. Gordon Gekko would be proud.

Society watch

The Politics of Space in the Age of Terrorism
A symposium reflecting on the role of architecture and design post S11
Program
Friday 1 July, 2005
8.30-9.00am registrationSchool of Architecture and Design, RMIT University360 Swanston St, Melbourneblg 8, level 11
(all sessions, including keynote lectures, will be held at the School of Architecture and Design, RMIT University, 360 Swanston St., Melbourne, blg 8, level 11, lecture hall 68)
9.00-10.00
welcome
Harriet Edquist and Hélène Frichot,
co-convenors
opening address
Leon van Schaik, Professor of Innovation, School of Architecture and Design, RMIT University
10.00 – 11.30
panel one: Marginal and In-Between Spaces in Global Cities
Janet McGaw: Fissures in the Urban Fabric: The Terror of Transparency
Peter Raisbeck: Biometric Urbanism: Digitising the Body in Global Cities
Boo Chapple: Terror and the Spaces In-Between

11.30-12.00
morning tea
12.00-1.30
panel two: cities new and old
Michael Linzey:Saving Alexandria. Civic Ethics in the Court of Augustus Ceasar
Faido Atto and Michael Linzey:The Open Society and its Enemies in Baghdad
Mauro Baracco:Spaces in a Condition of Co-Belongingness
1.30-2.30
Lunch
2.30-4.30
Panel three: terror and transport
Jo Law, Making the Hidden Perceptible: The Discontinuous Space and Time of Airports ,
Megan Marks, Waiting Spaces: From Transit to Permanent Temporariness
Lachlan MacDowall, Bombing Trains After Madrid: Graffiti and Security on Melbourne's Train System ,
4.30-5.00
Afternoon tea
5.00-6.30
panel four: a politics of space for the camp and the suburb
Hélène Frichot, Escaping the Camp and Imagining an Ethics for Architecture
Stuart Geddes, Complexity & Communication in Social, Cultural & Political Experience
Esther Charlesworth, Architects Without Frontiers
Jess Whyte, Guantanamo Bay: The Politics of Space of the State of Exception
Keynote address
6.30-8.00
Daniel Ross, Monash University, Melbourne
Passages to Immortality: Arakawa and Gins, Stiegler, and September 11
Daniel Ross obtained his doctorate from Monash University. He is the author of Violent Democracy , published by Cambridge University Press, (2004), and the co-director of the film, The Ister .

Saturday 2 July
9.00-11.00
panel five: Crowds, Cities and Subjectivities
Anoma Pieris, Outside in the City: Seriality, Anxiety and the Unstable Nation ,
Beatriz C. Maturana, Fear and our cities: Separation, Specialisation and the Abdication of Responsibility
Mirjana Lozanovska, Angels of Death: Progress, War and Architecture
Michael Ostwald and Michael Chapman, Crowds, Power and the Act of Terror: The Spatial Politics of Urban Survival
11.00-11.30
Morning tea
11.30-1.00
Panel six: manifestations of the global
Jane Kenway & Anna Hickey-Moody, Embodying the Global: Spatio-temporal and Spatio-Sensoral Assemblages of Youthful Masculinities
Soumitri Varadarajan, Language as project: Making Cruelty and Oppression Acceptable When Dealing With the Other
Graham Crist, No Blood for Oil
1.00-2.00
Lunch
2.00-3.30
Panel seven: representations and histories of terror
Jane Shepherd, ANZAC Cove revisited: Myth, ritual and national identity after the Bali Bombing ,
Ursula DeJong, In Defense of Melbourne: Critical Reflections on the History and the Legacy of Point Nepean
Harriet Edquist, Representing the ‘State of Exception': The Pictorial Tradition of the Western District Homestead 1856 - 1871
3.30-4.00
Afternoon tea
4.00-4.40
Escape From Woomera Collective
5.00-6.00
Invited Speakers
Charles Stivale and Eugene Holland, Deleuze and Terror, or Casting Planes Across Chaos ,
6.30-8.00
Keynote address
The (in)Security of Architecture and Life
Catherine Ingraham, Pratt Institute, New York
Catherine Ingraham is the author of Architecture and the Burdens of Linearity (Yale University Press, 1998) and Architecture, Animal, Human: The Asymmetrical Condition (Routledge Press, forthcoming Fall 2005), as well as numerous publications on architecture, history and theory. Her current book project is entitled Architecture and the Scene of Evidence . She is Chair and Professor of Graduate Architecture and Urban Design at Pratt Institute in New York City. Dr. Ingraham has lectured widely on architecture. She was an editor of Assemblage for eight years and has taught both design studios and seminars at Harvard University, Columbia University, Southern California Institute of Architecture, Iowa State University, and the University of Illinois.

6.30pm, Saturday 2nd July, 2005
Building 8, level 11, lecture hall 68
School of Architecture and Design
RMIT University
360 Swanston Street, Melbourne

DESIGN ATTIRE

Lec 2 what is design

Google “community of practice”
Communities of Practise
Further thoughts arising from my day in Brussels...
Miguel Cornejo gave an interesting, and touching, presentation on his experiences with Communities of Practise (CoPs). These are big in the world of Knowledge Management but may be jargon to others. Miguel is a quietly-spoken but powerful advocate of CoPs.
He explained how he created these online communities to support, for instance, HIV and AIDs sufferers. He creates different levels of access and anonymity so that sufferers can express their feelings freely whilst its also possible to maintain the standards of advice given and appropriate professional credentials are needed in some areas.
One of the most powerful ways in which this works for people is in acknowledgement. (Something I've blogged on before here.) Simply having a space to share experience, to speak and be heard in confidence, has a powerful positive impact for community members.
There's plenty of talk in Knowledge Management about knowledge as something to be transferred, but I loved Miguel's valuing of ackknowledgement. There was a lot more to his presentation than this - I'll link to it when the conference papers are published.
Posted by Johnnie Moore at 11:56 in Collaboration

Fri afternoon understanding sustainability

Contract draft

Corporation game blog

Start blog

Enter competition/s

Parkinsons disease/ problems with routine and retention of time.

What is it/paper lantern

Revert to materials what is paper what can it be

Function rd is easy =redesign
Emotive road = innovation

Anarkism manifestos-crypto manifesto, another anarchist manifesto by rob sparrow.

Some anarchist links